Christmas in Salzburg

Every year, thousands of people flee to Europe to celebrate the festivities on the lead up to Christmas. My annual tradition includes choosing a Christmas market to visit in the UK. I have been to markets in the Peak district, London, Lincolnshire to name a few, all very beautifully festive, however I have always wanted to go to one in another country. I had done extensive research into where the best place for me would be to venture to and I finally decided on Salzburg. The thought of celebrating Christmas surrounded by Austrian artisan market stalls, apple strudel and potentially getting the chance to do all of this in the snow is all the more enticing. The market was described as “charming and mesmerising” so of course I booked my tickets and was on the next available flight out to Salzburg W.A. Mozart Airport.

You always know the weather will be bad when your descent from the clouds to tarmac is a bumpy one, which meant that it wasn't a surprise when I was welcomed to a very soggy Salzburg. As I sat on the plane waiting for the seat belt sign to go off and to join the rush of passengers eager to grab their hold bags and get into the fresh air, I peered out of the window and almost forgot it was raining, as I was greeted with the most beautiful mountainous landscape. I decided to bring a long coat with me that used to be, emphasis on used to be, waterproof. It was safe to say, the Salzburg downpour had pushed my coat beyond its limits. I was soaked! However, nothing was going to stop me from exploring the “charming and mesmerising” city of Salzburg.

I decided to book a really early flight in order to spend as much time as possible exploring the city. My first port of call was to find the hotel I would be staying in, drop my bags off and start my Salzburg adventure. I booked the Arte Hotel on the outskirts of the old town, right next to the train station. My weekend getaway was organised as a package deal through Panorama Tours, and it was them who recommended this hotel and it didn’t disappoint. It is a very modern and spacious building with incredible views from the top floor, which is where you have your breakfast. In the evening, the breakfast room is transformed into a classy cocktail bar, which seemed to be a popular spot for people living local to the hotel. The scenic walk from the hotel to the old town took less than half an hour and followed trails of exciting Austrian restaurants and cobbled streets home to an array of souvenir shops. Panorama Tours provided me with a map of the city, with highlights of places to visit and where all the christmas market hotspots were. I was delighted to find that parts of the festive market were dotted around side streets and communal parks, which also happened to be on my route to the main Christmas event.

To escape from the downpour, my first pit stop started at Wernbacher Cafe for my routine morning chai latte which was delicious with a side of toast and jam. After drying out and getting warmed up, I continued my walk to the old town, wandering through local gardens and over Makartsteg Bridge, also known as Love Lock Bridge, due to the thousands of locks that have been linked to the railings by couples who have visited the city since it was built. My first stop in the old town took me to the Christmas shop, my actual definition of heaven! Ever since I was a child I have been obsessed with Christmas, therefore when someone told me that there is a Christmas shop in Salzburg, I had to make this my priority. Sadly it is forbidden to take photographs inside the store so I couldn't capture how incredibly festive this shop was. There were handmade decorations from floor to ceiling and intricately painted wooden ornaments to hang from the tree. It was an amazing find and a must see for anyone wanting to add a little extra Christmas spice to their trip.

On a few occasions, as I was wandering around the old town, I could hear these beautiful bells ringing from Salzburg Cathedral. With that being said, my next stop had to be the Cathedral to see if the interior had just as much grace as the music coming from within it. I went for the basic ticket to enter, which was only 5 euros, however there were other options available such as their music at noon ticket where the organ player comes in after the 12 o’clock bells ring to play music for those within the cathedral. I did actually happen to sneak in and hear this for myself and it was almost angelic. I am not a religious person therefore whenever I enter a church or a place of worship I almost feel uneasy, as if I have no right to be there. However, I felt a sense of calmness and peace when I entered the Cathedral. It was a building like no other, I was in awe of the intricate detailing on the ceiling and the history behind each painting and sculpture. I lit a candle in the cathedral for loved ones I have lost this year and then sought out a cafe to get a glass of prosecco. All around the old town, there are small alleyways branching off from the main streets, like trickling streams parting from the flooding river of tourists. Down one of these side streets, I followed a display of Christmas lights and green garlands, which brought me to a small Christmas market and a well-deserved glass of Prosecco. Each stall was set inside beautifully rustic wooden cabins and decorated in Christmas foliage creating a strong festive atmosphere.

I had worked up quite an appetite by this point but I hadn't done much research into where to eat for my first day in Salzburg, therefore I simply walked back to the hotel I was staying in and hoped to stumble across a nice restaurant along the way, which is exactly what I did. I saw a place advertised outside a hotel called the Pitter Keller restaurant, which said that they serve traditional Austrian cuisine, so I had to give it a try. The restaurant was situated underground and had completely different decor than the hotel. The was very modern and clean cut, whereas the restaurant was rustic and looked almost like the interior of a ski chalet. I managed to get myself a table in the corner of the room, giving me the perfect vantage point to watch people and to admire the cosy decor. The menu was very vast but I decided to order the Pumpkin Dumplings from the specials menu cooked in a brown butter sauce. This was incredible, if not a little unusual but I had seen dumplings on different menus on my walk around the city and thought that it was a very good option for a vegetarian, which I am, I gave them a go and was not disappointed. To finish off my meal, I of course had to have a traditional Austrian Apple Strudel which just melted in my mouth. It was absolutely delicious and a fitting way to end my first day in Salzburg.

I started my second day with a large, cooked breakfast from my hotel which filled me with the sustenance for the day. As I had booked a table for 6pm at a very famous restaurant in the old town, I wanted to make sure that I had given myself enough fuel to get through the day, being able to skip lunch allowing me enough room to savour my evening meal. I decided to explore the Hohensalzburg Fortress, Europe's largest 11th Century fortification. I paid 14 euros for the Basic ticket which included the ascent and descent by the Fortress Funicular. As part of the package, I was also able to visit the courtyards, bastions, chapels, Panorama tour, Fortress museum and much more. I was especially excited to find that some of the Christmas market had made its way up to one of the fort's main courtyards. To get access to the fortress, you can either walk up to the top which would take you about 20 minutes or take a ride on the Fortress Funicular that lasts no more than a minute. On this ride, you take in the most breathtaking views of the city, from the old town to the new. You almost want the journey to stop halfway for a photo break, as the steep incline gives you the most picturesque snapshot of the city.

At first glance, The Fortress does not disappoint and as I wandered around, I was surprised to find stalls from the Christmas market in the courtyard. Although surprised, I was very excited at the thought of having a Glühwein on my way through the Fortress. Of course I had to stop off at some of the other stalls, many were selling hot beverages and Austrian beer and had artisan creators selling their own handmade products. On my way around the Fort, I could see some people disappearing through a stone archway in the wall which intrigued me immensely, therefore the logical thing was to follow the crowd. Suddenly I was transported back to the 11th Century and into the beating heart of any ancient Fortress, the Bakery! The old bakery had been given a whole new lease of life, as it had been transformed into a quaint little pizza pit stop. There were only a few bench seats and two solid wood tables for everyone to huddle around but the room itself took my breath away. It was nothing fancy, it had no gilded arches or decorative carvings in the walls. It was a simple kind of beauty, one rich in history and hard work. Towering above one of the tables was the chimney, still covered in the old soot from the burners. The pizzas were being made in what I can only assume was the old stone bread oven, with a slight structural revamp. You had a choice of three pizza toppings and of course, a festive Glühwein. The pizzas were delicious, and suddenly no one cared about how numb their fingers were from the winter air or how cramped we all were with 10 people sharing a bench fit for 6. It was my best find of the trip and one that will stick with me for a long time, a secret gem that will keep the history of one

room alive for a long time.

The concept of dining out and getting the opportunity to try new local delicacies when exploring a new city has been something that has always excited me, therefore I had to try one of the city's most famous restaurants, St. Peter Stiftskulinarium. It is supposedly one of the oldest restaurants in Europe, serving culinary masterpieces since 803. The restaurant is situated in the courtyard of Stiftskirche St. Peter (St Peter Abbey) which in itself is rather spectacular. You come to an archway in a corner and as you walk through, you are presented with the main entrance of St. Peter Stiftskulinarium and greeted by a very friendly host. I went at a very quiet part of the day which meant that I got to experience eating in one of the older rooms in the restaurant, with wooden beams above my head and classical decor. The wine list was extensive, while the menu had a seasonal touch to it with not too much of an overwhelming choice of food which suited me very well. I always find that when given a huge choice of food on the menu, one tends to get a little flustered and end up ordering the opposite of what you originally wanted in a panic. I was very predictable and went for my usual drink of choice, prosecco, while given some more time to study my food options. Finally I came to the decision to go for the homemade curd Gnocchi with taleggio, mini spinach and poached pear, which was such a heavenly combination of flavours, from the creaminess of the cheese to the sweetness of the pears. I finished my meal with the staple apple strudel and it was the best way to end such a lovely dinner. I would highly recommend visiting St. Peter Stiftskulinarium, with its rich history and elegant cuisine, it was a brilliant culinary experience.

The piste de resistance of my trip, and the main reason for travelling to Salzburg was to visit the Christmas market which I attended straight after my meal at St. Peter Stiftskulinarium. The market was just around the corner and by this time it was dark and all of the festive lights and music had come to life. It was extremely busy at the market as during the evening is the best time to go, with people out to shop for artisanal christmas presents or souvenirs, others there to eat and drink with friends and many there to simply take in the ambience of the event. The market stretched through two separate squares, one was right outside the Salzburg cathedral, with the lights shining onto the cathedral illuminating the market. I headed straight to the Glühwein stall and was surprised with how much I was charged, however after reading the signs, I realised that I had been charged extra for deposit on the mug I was given which I thought was very clever. They must get thousands of these solid heat insulated mugs made each year, with the logo of the market on them, and keeping track of who gives them back seems like an impossible task, therefore they simply charge for a deposit. You get your 3 euros back if you hand back your mug, if not you get to keep it as a souvenir which is exactly what I did. With my Glühwein tipple keeping me warm, I carried on with my market tour, going from stall to stall, reminding myself that I only have a small bag on the plane so have to limit myself on the items I can take back with me. I ended up buying something for my mum and dad for Christmas and a piece of jewellery for myself, therefore I would class that as a successful shopping session. All of a sudden the lights on the giant centrepiece christmas tree turned off and then quickly back on again, and everyone was suddenly serenaded by an amazing live band. At first, I couldn't figure out where the music was coming from and then I could see people pointing to the top of the church and the band was lit up and playing at the bottom of the steeple. It was truly breathtaking, and what made it even more magical was that it started snowing, making it feel like a fairytale. This is how I always pictured what going to a Christmas market should be like, with live music playing and Christmas decorations everywhere, a sense of community while the snow falls silently into the ground. There was no better way to end my time in the city, having experienced everything on my list and having fallen in love with the city of Salzburg and its people, food and history, this was one trip I will never forget.